Hannah Townsend’s weekend of hwyl in Tenby, Pembrokeshire

I have strong ties to Wales. My Dad is Welsh and, as a result, I spent a lot of my childhood in the country. So when I was recently given the opportunity to spend a weekend getting better acquainted with the seaside town of Tenby, in Pembrokeshire, I hopped on the first train from London.

There’s this thing called 'hwyl' in Wales, which is a little Welsh word with a big meaning. It broadly means a deep state of joy that comes from being totally immersed in a moment. It’s all about combining unburdened adventure with unparalleled beauty, and this trip to Tenby was full of adventure and joyful moments, from sampling Welsh sparkling wine for the very first time, to undertaking a morning stroll with a herd of friendly alpacas.

Here’s everything my partner, Benedict, and I, got up to on an incredible short break in and around the West Wales town of Tenby, the perfect weekend city escape.

Having caught the direct train from London Paddington to Swansea, we picked up our rental car and headed to Penally Abbey, in the village of Penally, our home away from home for the weekend. Built in the 18th century, the picturesque property by the sea once welcomed pilgrims en route to St Davids and was briefly owned by the Jameson family (of Jameson Whiskey fame!), before being lovingly converted into a cosy, characterful 12-roomed boutique hotel. Best of all, they serve tea and cake upon arrival - the absolute dream.

I’ve spent many childhood holidays in Wales, but I’ve never been to this part of the country before, so, having indulged on a few slices of a passion fruit meringue cake I was keen to get out and explore the charms of Tenby (a destination I’d heard so many good things about), located just a 10-minute drive away.

Though its Welsh name, Dinbych-y-Pysgod (which translates into English as 'Little Fortress of the Fish'), implies a connection to the fishing industry, Tenby made its name as a postcard-perfect resort town, welcoming tourists as far back as the 18th century. Cocooned with a set of medieval stone walls, Tenby’s old town centre has this feeling of warmth to it, where people say 'hello' to you as you pass them in the street and cosy cafes continually beckon you in from the cobbled laneways.

After a period of serene wandering, including taking in the views of the pastel-coloured houses lining the fishing-boat-filled harbour, Benedict and I headed into Tap & Tân for dinner. Situated slap-bang in the centre of Tenby, this tap room and burger joint plates up some mouth-watering burgers, brisket sandwiches and loaded fries, all complemented by a chilled out ambience that includes an in-house DJ spinning vinyl on the weekends. During the last few years, the restaurant has undertaken a highly successful collaboration with Feast Pembrokeshire, who’ve now moved to a new venue within the grounds of the historic Cresselly Arms, a riverside pub a short drive north in the village of Cresswell Quay.

Having watched our burgers sizzle on the grill the night before, on Saturday morning it was our turn to enjoy a stew at Sea and Steam, a mobile sauna parked up on the golden sands of Saundersfoot Beach, just around the coast from Tenby. My Dad has always told me that Wales has the best beaches in the world, and, sitting in the wood-fired sauna looking out at the waves lapping the white sand, I couldn’t help but think he might be onto something.

Revitalised and recharged, we headed from Saundersfoot to Carew Castle in the village of Carew. Along with its picturesque setting on the banks of a large millpond, the castle is famed for its unique architectural style, appearing at one angle as a Norman fortress, yet from another as a grand Elizabethan mansion. The latter additions were made by the Welsh politician John Perrot, a controversial character who never got to enjoy his regal renovations due to his arrest (on treason charges) and eventual death (by suspected poisoning) at the Tower of London. On the topic of the macabre, the castle is said to have at least two resident ghosts, one, a white lady who wanders the site by moonlight, and another a former kitchen boy who is responsible for the sound of clanking pots that guests occasionally claim to hear. 

We strolled along the circular trail that leads visitors around the castle’s tranquil grounds, then – keen to not cross paths with any supernatural staff members – made a quick beeline back to Saundersfoot before sunset, to enjoy a dinner at Lân y Môr restaurant.

Built just a few paces back from the pebbles of Coppet Hall Beach, Lân y Môr endeavors to showcase the best of Welsh produce and reflect the distinctive flavours of the county of Pembrokeshire. To this end, dishes feature ingredients like Camarthenshire Ham, Gower Salt Marsh Lamb and oysters plucked from the nearby Daugleddau Estuary (three of the many Welsh delicacies with protected status), all served in a format that allows their freshness and quality to shine through. It was a gorgeous evening – tens across the board from us.

The county of Pembrokeshire is renowned for its hiking opportunities, and we kicked off our final day here with a walk with some unusual companions, a herd of alpacas. Set on a working farm, Pembrokeshire Alpaca Trekking gives guests the opportunity to hang out with these gentle, fluffy animals, accompanying them on a walk through the rolling fields of the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park, the only national park in the world dedicated specifically to an area of coastline! A truly unique Pembrokeshire day out.

After the trek, I felt as hungry as a horse (or should that be alpaca?), so we headed for lunch at the award-winning The Orangery, the restaurant of the magical Trefloyne Manor hotel. It’s only a few miles from Tenby, but Trefloyne Manor feels like it’s nestled in its own secret world, a landscape of woodlands and meadows that is protected as a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI). The hotel’s restaurant focuses on seasonal products, including a selection of fish and lobster landed at Tenby harbour, but we opted for one of their famed Sunday roast dinners. A selection of tantalising meats served up with crispy roast potatoes, seasonal veggies and rich gravy, you just can’t beat it.

Our final stop of the weekend was one I’d been looking forward to. I’ve sampled wine from all around the world, but at family-run Velfrey Vineyard, outside of the town of Whitland, I had my first sip of Welsh sparkling wine. It was a tantalizing tipple, with notes of orange blossom, white fruits and honey. We also learnt about the history of viticulture in Wales, which, after a slightly rocky start, finally took root in the country at the dawn of the 21st century. Today, Wales is home to nearly 40 vineyards, including the wonderful Velfrey. 

As the light of the spring afternoon began to fade, Benedict and I raised our glasses to a glorious weekend away in the county of Pembrokeshire. It’s safe to say we certainly felt the 'hwyl' here in West Wales, a destination I’d describe using another Welsh word, hardd (beautiful) – just like my Dad has always told me.